Quo Vadis?

“Ladies and Gentlemen, you find yourself in front of a herd of sheep.” This pronouncement from Dr. Hatlie will no doubt be remembered by me as one of the strangest things I have ever heard. Stranger still was the fact that it was true.

Baa-Baa's

As the sheep filed past, Dr. Hatlie proceeded to explain the significance of the road we stood on. It is called the Via Appia (Appian Way) and was once a major road into the city of Rome which countless travelers have taken over the years.

This road also was the way both Peter and Paul came by on their way to Rome. Indeed it is said that at one point they met at a tavern on the side of the road, one leaving and the other entering the city.

Emperors and generals would bring their Triumphs along this road into Rome. Legions of soldiers, chariots, horsemen, caged lions, and even elephants would have proceeded down this Way, celebrating victories and displaying the grandeur of the conqueror.

Now, sheep and undergraduates meander along the uneven cobblestones.

We walked along for a short while. It was a pleasant journey with green foliage overhanging the deep grey stones. I can see why the emperors would want to build a palace there to get away from the noise and bustle of the city. The former palace we saw was built by Maxentius, the last pagan emperor before Constantine, who split the empire into two halves. But this did not prevent the empire's eventual fall.  The empire died, first in the west, and then a second time in the east, and the once lavish living quarters of the emperors crumbled away.

Ruins of a Mansion

After a certain distance we stopped to admire a massive tomb. During the Roman period, many wealthy families would build these lavish tombs on the side of the road outside the city as if to declare their grandeur to the passersby. There were once many of these tombs, such that there was hardly a spot not taken. They built them outside the city because no one likes the smell of death. These tombs must have made quite an impact on travelers. Anyone leaving the city would be reminded of their mortality and be compelled to stand with looming tombs on either side, monuments to the dead.

Roman grave... Expensive Roman grave

On this road, Peter is said to have fled Rome when persecution broke out in that city, not wishing to be food for the wild beasts. On the way he is said to have met Christ going in the opposite direction. Surprised, Peter opened his mouth and cried out, “My Lord, the One I love!” And Christ answered him, “Peter, I know you love Me.” The apostle then asked, “Where are you going?” And Christ replied, “I am on my way to Rome to be crucified a second time." Immediately, as he finished speaking He vanished into heaven. And Peter, bearing in mind his love for Christ, returned to feed the fury of the pagans, and be crucified.

It is said that Christ left his footprints for Peter to follow in the stones. These were cut out of the road and placed in a nearby church.

Quo Vadis? (Latin: Where are you going?)

At last we reached our destination, which were the catacombs of St. Sebastian. Catacombs are a series of caves and tunnels where dead people are kept. These catacombs are named for a saint who was martyred in 228 AD.

Sebastian was a prominent Roman official who had converted to Christianity. Now, he had kept this a secret, for at that time there was great persecution. One day he was present at the public trial of some Christians. Not wishing to sentence these youths to death, the judge had sent for their families that they might convince them to renounce Christ. After much crying and consoling on the part of their families, the young men seemed as though they might capitulate to their incessant pleas. Sebastian, seeing that they were like sheep wandering without a shepherd, arose from his seat and spoke:

My brothers, do not act as abandoned orphans without a father, forgetting the home you have in Christ. For it would be folly to fear him who can but destroy the body, and not consider the judge who can cast both body and soul into hell, which is the second death. Eagerly contend therefore to be among those who will sit at his right hand on that dread day, for he will not spare those who are left. Indeed, He is the Holy One, who alone is worthy to break the seven seals, and in His hand He bears an iron rod to judge the nations.

But for us, His staff is a comfort, for if we follow Him on the righteous path then we will want for nothing, but rest in green fields with cool water receiving only goodness and mercy. And He shall prepare eternal palaces in his Father’s house and anoint us joint rulers to judge the world. For He restores our soul to God that we need not fear evil, though death overshadow us. See, even here He has spread a table for you allowing you the honor of partaking in the same bleeding cup from which our Lord did drink.

For what greater honor can we receive but to follow Him who took away the sin of all the world? What greater act of love can we perform? Therefore, do not speak, lest by speaking you prove cowardly, for the Anointed One went to the slaughter without opening His mouth.

Thus spoke Sebastian. And his words were so moving that many believed including the judge and his family, and he released the Christians. But the emperor was angered when he heard of this, and commanded that Sebastian be shot to death with many arrows. And it was done. Nor did the archers miss the mark, but left St. Sebastian for dead, struck in the side and pierced on every limb. But a woman came and tended his wounds and he regained his strength. But the Emperor soon discovered this and ordered him to be beaten to death with clubs. Afterwards, the Christians came and buried him in the catacombs. Thus St. Sebastian was killed a second time.

St. Sebastian: as depicted in Subiaco

On Architecture

“You know what Rome needs?” my friend asked. “A few glass and steel sky scrapers.”

In Rome, no building is much taller than about five stories. Most of these look like apartment buildings that were built over 100 years ago. They generally have a dull reddish or light tan-like color. The whole city has a crowded and uniform feel. Yet I find this old uniformity to be rather charming. Throwing in a random sky scraper would completely ruin this. I say as much to my friend.

“But this has been done here through the centuries. If you remember what they said in the tour, the Romans conquer someone, steal their art, and build a temple. The Christians come along, set up a cross and make it a church. Then the Renaissance happens, and they add their own unique flavor to it. And that’s awesome, but then it just stops. There is nothing newer than the Renaissance. Why can’t the modern era add its own stamp to the city just like every era before it?”

 Egyptian Obelisk on a Renaissance base, in front of a church.

One of my favorite places we had visited on the tour was the Piazza Navona. There are two fountains in this plaza.

If I recall correctly, my aesthetics teacher spoke about one of these fountains. The plaza is irregularly shaped, one side is curved and the opposite end is square. The artists who made this fountain brilliantly decided to use a shape that was both square and circular that would harmonize with both ends. This structure, along with the special placement of this fountain, helped make the uneven sides of the plaza appear more orderly.

Across the Piazza Navona is another fountain (shown below). The story goes that the artist had a rivalry with another artist who was doing work in the church that happened to be right in front of the fountain. Because of this, he made the figures on the fountain as though they were hiding their face from the church and writhing in agony at the horrible sight. While this story is probably not true, it does indicate a lack of awareness on the part of the artist for the context in which he was working in.

The first artist did better than the second, for he took his environment into account, and was even able to impose order where none existed before.

Rome could probably use some modern buildings. But care must be taken to harmonize the old and the new, so that one does not overshadow the other. In all honesty, I think a skyscraper might be a little too tall.