Battles, Buildings and Birds

Immediately upon arriving to our rooms, a dispute arose over who would sleep in which bed during our temporary pilgrimage. Three beds were lined up together against one wall, and the fourth lay along the opposite wall at the foot of the others. In all other respects the beds were identical. But because the fourth was set apart from the others, by its position it became the territory for which one waged war against another.

Besides this conflict, the building turned out to be a very nice hotel. What I liked most was the fact that when you opened the window you would hear a sudden flapping and fluttering of wings as birds burst forth and flew away. I had often seen this depicted in various ways, but had never experienced the thrill of the sound of rushing wings.

(Pigeons!)

We arose the next morning to explore the town of Assisi. Assisi is a small, old town with narrow, winding, cobblestone streets and old pleasant buildings, dirty more with age than with city grime. The city has been relatively well-preserved through the ages. Wars usually bring the destruction of buildings, but Assisi was fortunate and even escaped great damage during the bombings of World War II. During that time the city became a place of hiding for many Jews. After the first bombing, a Christian general, knowing of this secret, quickly used his influence to have the town declared a hospital town. This prevented the allies from further bombing and saved the city’s buildings from destruction.  One such building was the Church of St. Francis.  This building was built over the burial place of St. Francis so that it rested upon his grave.

 (The door on the lower left of the last picture)

The church was full of paintings which depicted scenes from the life of St. Francis. Francis was far from being a saint when he was young. As the son of a wealthy cloth merchant, he began by pursuing earthly glory through victory in war. He volunteered to be a soldier in a military campaign and his wealthy father bought him the most expensive armor and sent him off to war. In the army he met a poor knight with old battered armor. Seeing the man’s wrenched condition Francis insisted that they exchange armor, for the knight who had fought in many wars was more worthy of honor than he. And so he gave up the defense which wealth affords to wear the protection of a better man. But others thought him foolish, for he had traded armor worth 100 hides for armor worth only 9.

(Francis exchanging clothing with a knight)

On their way to war, St. Francis had a dream. In this dream he heard a voice asking him “Is it better to serve the Master or the servant?”

“The master,” he replied

The voice then said, “Choose whom you will serve this day."

Considering his vision, Francis determined that it was a warning not to go to war, so the following morning Francis road back to Assisi alone. He returned with nothing; he had received no honor, no plunder, no glory nor any of the benefits of war. Furthermore, his father and the townspeople perceived his return as a sign of fear and cowardice. And so St. Francis became poorer in the eyes of his countrymen.

(Statue outside the Church: I love how dejected it looks, and how he is moving towards the church)

After this, Francis turned to more spiritual matters, and the luxuries and revelries of his friends became less attractive. One night he received a message in a dream, where he was told by a voice from heaven, “Build My church.” Interpreting this to mean that he should rebuild the abandoned chapel near the outskirts of Assisi, he set to work. To raise the necessary funds, he sold some of his father’s cloth, for his father was a cloth merchant. Taking what was left over, he freely gave to the poor and needy. Hearing of his son's doings, his father dragged him before the Bishop.

“Look here what a wastrel lies within my house. For rather than choose a profession, such as a doctor or a lawyer as is the custom among men, he rather chooses to fritter away his time in whatever flight of fancy should sparkle in his eye, as though he were some song bird making sweet melody for no gain. He has no eye for business but makes light of gleaming gold and shining silver. Who will provide for him if he should fall? Who will clothe him with solemn splendor? I am ashamed to say his mother bore him, for such a child brings naught but shame. But do I not have a claim on him? Do I not possess a share in this boy? Look not upon him, for to own that were a shame; but look upon all he has around him. This cloth is mine, the money from its sale is mine; the food he had for lunch was mine, the food he will have for dinner will have been mine, his bed is my bed, his house is my house. Indeed, the very clothes with which he covers his shame before you are mine. Therefore, bid him not repay me with injury but to do as custom prescribes and obey the dictates of an older man. ”

(Francis being covered by the Bishop)

The Bishop, unable to deny the justice of the father’s plea, bade Francis return his father’s cloth. Francis, obeying, took the rolls of cloth and cast them before his father, and then he removed his clothes saying, “you may have your cloth, henceforth I will accept nothing that belongs to you.” At this he left the town square naked as the flowers of nature. But the Bishop, not wishing to offend against the customs of men, took his own cloak and spread it around St. Francis. And so the Bishop took St. Francis in as a son. On that day St. Francis left his father and cleaved unto poverty.

Francis eventually decided that he should start a religious order. He traveled to Rome to ask the Pope's permission. Now some years before, another man had come with a similar request. When he was denied he was upset and began to form his own sect, where he taught heresy. This experience made the Pope suspicious of St. Francis. However, one night as he slept  he had a dream in which he saw St. Francis holding up a Church.  He took this to mean that God was working through him to strengthen the church. With this assurance the Pope willingly supported the Franciscan order.

(Look at the roundness of the left figure's knee. This is just before the beginning of the Renaissance)

After the tour, I had the option of going on an optional hike to the place where St. Francis would retire to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, or visiting a nearby castle and wandering the streets and tourist shops of Assisi. I chose the hike. St. Francis is said to have frequently made the trip barefoot. Many decided to follow his example and walk all the way without shoes as a way to mortify the flesh. With or without shoes, our flesh was certainly mortified or at least soaked by the continual drizzle. Despite the downpour, the walk was pleasant enough and the view was very nice.

There are a succession of several little tunnels, caves and rooms. I was very surprised at how small and bare they were. It was a simple building that looked as if it had been built and extended and added to in an a haphazard way, depending on the conditions of time and circumstance. It seemed more like something which naturally collected and built up in a gap in the mountain side over time, rather than something which an artisan decided to construct one day.

 (It's smaller and humbler than it looks)

It is said that in this place, St. Francis was walking along when he was suddenly filled, by the Holy Spirit, with a strong urge to preach. Since there was no one else nearby, he began to speak to the birds.

Sing harmony to God, you birds, and raise your voices to proclaim His great provision; for He fitted you with wings and fashioned them with flying feathers. He taught you how to build your nests, and in His kingdom you have refuge. Nor will He suffer you to go without the things you need. When Elijah was in the wilderness, the Lord sent him bread by ravens. If the Lord uses birds to bring His servant food, then will He forget to feed the flocks who are waiters?  Therefore, do not contend with one another, waging war for food. But rather, live in harmonious love, trusting Him who disposes all things.

It is said that the birds stopped going about their business and looked on Francis with attentive eyes. Furthermore, all other animals passing by paused to listen, and the wolf and the hare declared peace between themselves to lie down and hear what Francis spoke. They made neither sound nor motion until after the sermon had come to a conclusion and they had received his parting blessing. I am sure St. Francis found the birds a far more attentive audience than most.

(The tree the birds were in when he preached to them)

By the time we returned, it was getting late.  The rain forbade us from desiring to venture out any further. We ate dinner and went to bed with the cooing of the pigeons outside our window.  Early the next morning, we packed our bags and I bid the birds a final farewell.

(From Subiaco: Portrait of St. Francis made during his life.)